Here I simply want to spell out a few basic settings to capture the types of scenes listed below. The settings I suggest are simply rough guidelines as you’ll have to adjust and experiment depending on the available light you have, how fast or slow things are happening around you, and the results you’d like to get.
Remember, there are always exceptions to the rule and great photos can be produced by breaking the rules entirely.
Night Scenes?
Night Scenes are much easier than many people think. If you follow the settings I have below the only adjustments you’ll need is varying the shutter speed to suit the amount of light the scene is producing.
For night scenes you will need a tripod. A remote shutter release is also handy although as an alternative, set your camera to the timer function (some cameras have a 2 and/or 10 sec timer) and use that so you don’t get camera shake (blur).
Shutter Speed – 2” – 15” or more (You’ll have to experiment a bit here because shutter speed will be depending on how dark it is and how bright the scene is.)
Aperture – f8 or higher (This is to get a good depth of field and allow a longer exposure.)
ISO – 100 (This is kept low so that it reduces the amount of noise in the photo. Again it helps to allow a longer exposure if the scene is quite bright)
White Balance – AWB (by all means try other settings such as Cloudy or Tungsten)
Metering Mode – Evaluative (because you want the camera to read the entire scene)
Auto Focus (AF) – One Shot (you’ll only need the camera to focus once per shot)
Drive – Single Shot (you don’t need to take more than one shot at a time)
Night Photography
Outdoor Sport & Other Fast Moving Subjects?
Sport comes in all speeds so again adjustments will be needed depending on how close you are zoomed in, how fast the action is, the amount of light etc.
For the purpose of this document we will assume that it’s daylight and the sport is something similar to football.
Shutter Speed – 400 – 1000 (Or even more if you can get away with it and want to stop the action. Try slower speeds for panning with the action and creating the sensation of speed.)
Note: Using your TV or S (Shutter Priority) mode is useful for sport. Also some cameras come with a sports setting that can be effective.Aperture – f8 (chosen simply because it givse more depth of field but may have to be adjusted if very high shutter speeds are used)
ISO – 400 (Reasonably sensitive to light so it allows higher shutter speeds than ISO 100 or 200, and also isn’t high enough to create too much noise in the photo.)
White Balance – AWB (by all means try other settings such as Cloudy)
Metering Mode – Centre Weighted (because you are usually focusing on a particular person or vehicle for instance)
Auto Focus (AF) – AI Servo (because your subject is likely to be moving)
Drive – Continuous (you may want to just hold the button down for a few shots to be sure you get the action you are after)
Osprey
Landscapes?
Landscapes come in all shapes and sizes and lighting conditions so it’s very difficult to make too many suggestions at all. However, the goal is usually to get a well exposed photo that has most of the scene in focus. For the purpose of this document let’s assume the scene is something like a river or lake with trees and nice sky in good daylight.
A tripod may be necessary depending on your settings. Remember not to try to shoot with a shutter speed under about 1/60th.
Shutter Speed – 1/200th – 1/400th (it’s difficult to say really even with the suggested scenario)
Note: Some cameras have AV or A (Aperture Priority) which can effective for this type of photo. Simply choose this mode, set the aperture to f8 or higher and let the camera choose the shutter speed.Aperture – f8 or higher (this is simply to get a good depth of field)
ISO – 100 (no need to go higher if good light is available but by all means raise it if you need)
White Balance – AWB (usually will do the trick but again experiment if you feel the hue in the photo isn’t quite right)
Metering Mode – Evaluative (because you want the camera to read the entire scene)
Auto Focus (AF) - One Shot (you’ll only need the camera to focus once per shot)
Drive – Single Shot (you don’t need to take more than one shot at a time)
Landscape
Soft Water?
Many beginners have seen those soft waterfall shots or something similar and are dying to get a shot like that of their own. When done right, the soft water (or veiled water as it’s sometimes called) looks very pleasing.
Tripod needed and always take these photos in dark areas or early morning and late afternoon.
Shutter Speed – 2” – 5” (needs to be slow to allow the water to blur and create the veil appearance)
Aperture – f8 or higher (this is simply to get a good depth of field for the rocks etc around the water)
ISO – 100 (This is kept low so that it reduces the amount of noise in the photo and it helps to allow a longer exposure)
White Balance – Cloudy or Shade (usually will do the trick because the scene should be in a shaded area, but again, experiment if you feel the hue in the photo isn’t quite right)
Metering Mode - Evaluative (because you want the camera to read the entire scene)
Auto Focus (AF) - One Shot (you’ll only need the camera to focus once per shot)
Drive – Single Shot (you don’t need to take more than one shot at a time)
Soft Water
Lightning
For the purposes of this tip we will assume the storm has arrived in the early evening so conditions are very dark.
For lightning you will need a tripod. A remote shutter release is also handy although as an alternative, set your camera to the timer function (some cameras have a 2 and/or 10 sec timer) and use that so you don’t get camera shake (blur).
Shutter Speed – 8” – 60” or more (a large range of shutter speed suggested as it’s impossible to know how much lightning, how bright it is, and how often it is going to strike)
Note: If you camera has a ‘Bulb’ or open shutter setting then you can use that and simply leave the photo going until you see some lightning has appeared within the area you focused.Aperture – f8 or higher (This is simply to get a good depth of field and allow a longer exposure.)
ISO – 100 (This is kept low so that it reduces the amount of noise in the photo. Again it helps to allow a longer exposure)
White Balance – AWB (by all means try other settings such as Cloudy or Tungsten)
Metering Mode – Evaluative (because you want the camera to read the entire scene)
Auto Focus (AF) – One Shot (you’ll only need the camera to focus once per shot)
Drive – Single Shot (you don’t need to take more than one shot at a time)
Lightning
